Jonker Walk, Malacca Food Trip

I received today a positive comment on one of my blog entries about our backpacking trip last October, and I realized that I haven’t posted anything about that trip in four months. It’s a shame, really, because I still have a lot of stories and pictures to share about that adventure. I have my notes in my Moleskine notebook to remind me about our trip–that it wasn’t just a dream–but my notebook doesn’t have photographs. I did plan on documenting our trip on this blog so I can read back and look at our pictures and reminisce, but things got busy in December. Anyway, I’m going to pick up where I left off. My last entry about the trip was about our afternoon in Malacca, now let me tell you all about our food trip in Jonker Walk that evening.

If there is one thing you need to experience in Malacca, it would have to be Jonker Walk (or Jonker Street or Jalan Hang Jebat) in Malacca Chinatown, and it is best to experience it in the evening when it’s alive and bustling with activity. The street is lined with antique stores and houses, and in the evening it is closed off and becomes a night market where food stalls abound.

We got to Jonker Street just before the sun set, and most food stalls weren’t open for business yet. We were already famished at this point, though, so we decided to snack on the fare of one of the tables that were already ready to serve.

Jonker Walk
30 sen (P4.25) apiece, except for the sticks with pink tips which are 40 sen (P5.50)

Jonker Walk
cucumber was free :P

We tried the refreshments from this stall:

Jonker Walk

Abet liked the drinks here, we came back later in the evening.

Jonker Walk
I enjoyed the sweet-sour lime and plum juice

For dinner we tried Malacca’s most popular dish at Restoran Famosa: chicken rice ball. Chicken rice ball is similar to Hainanese chicken rice (our favorite dish in Singapore), except that the chicken-flavored rice is served shaped like golf balls.

Jonker Walk
Abet’s roasted chicken rice ball

Jonker Walk
my steamed chicken rice ball

Good and cheap, but I still prefer the chicken rice in Singapore. We walked around after dinner para magpababa ng kinain, and before long, we were ready to sample more of what Jonker Walk had to offer. Our pick this time: siomai! Siomai of different shapes and sizes and colors. We tried seven of these:

Jonker Walk

Abet loves tubo, he wasn’t able to resist the sugarcane juice vendor.

Jonker Walk

I still haven’t had my dessert at this point, so I bought a stick of assorted fruits dipped in chocolate. This wouldn’t have been so bad if there wasn’t a cherry tomato in it. Blech. A chocolate-covered tomato isn’t really my idea of dessert.

Jonker Walk

To cap off our evening, we had shared a bowl of cendol at Jonker88, a museum-cafe which is probably the most popular spot on Jonker Walk:

Jonker Walk

Sorry, super blurred photo (again, DSLR n00b here). This was seriously the best thing I ate in our entire 11-day trip. I first fell in love with cendol when we were in Singapore last year, and it is now on the list of my top 10 favorite foods. Cendol is a similar to our halu-halo, except that its main sahog is red beans and green rice “noodle strips.” There’s the finely shaved ice, and coconut milk is used instead of evaporada. Then there’s that dark brown syrup made from palm sugar that tastes just like the latik of the biko my momma makes.

Whenever I reminisce about our trip to Malacca, I fondly think about our Jonker Walk food trip (and the cendol, of course). Blogging about this experience and seeing all the food pictures above makes me want to go back. Since I don’t see a trip to Malaysia in the near future, I think I just might drag Abet soon to a restaurant named Malacca along Jupiter and see how it compares to the food we enjoyed in Jonker Walk. If I’m lucky, the cendol will taste just the same.

An Afternoon in Malacca

Malacca or Melaka, two hours away by bus from Kuala Lumpur, is a vibrant little city teeming with history. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July of 2008. There are many interesting historical sites in Malacca because of its rich past, having been colonized by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British.

We only had half a day in Malacca, and here were some of the sites we were able to visit:

Malacca
Memorial Pengisytiharan Kemerdekaan

We didn’t go inside the Memorial Pengisytiharan Kemerdekaan (Proclamation of Independence Memorial) because of time constraints, we just passed by, but here you’ll be able to see exhibits about Malaysia’s history from the time of the first sultanates leading up to the country’s independence.

Malacca

A Famosa is what remains of what used to be an old Portuguese fortress. The fort was destroyed during the Dutch invasion, all that’s left are the walls. I can’t believe we weren’t able to take pictures of the cannons just in front of this entrance.

Malacca
goofing around inside A Famosa

St. Paul’s Church is just up the hill from A Famosa. The path to the church allows you to enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the town.

Malacca

Malacca

St. Paul’s Church, built by the Portuguese in 1521 was once the prayer house of the Portuguese Catholics and became a fortress in 1567. When the Dutch took over, it became a burial ground for their noble dead. Some of the tombstones are still along the walls inside the church.

Malacca

A statue of St. Francis Xavier stands outside the church ruins (with one hand missing). He was buried here briefly in 1553 before his remains were transferred to Goa in India.

We went down Bukit St.Paul (St. Paul’s Hill) towards the Red Square, and we saw that we were 10,632 kilometers away from London:

Malacca

The Red Square is the beautiful square around Christ Church and Stadthuys, both red buildings, like most of the buildings in this area.

Malacca

Malacca
Abet inside the Stadthuys
(Don’t ask me what he’s doing there, I have no idea.)

Malacca

The Christ Church was built by the Dutch from 1741 to 1753. This is the oldest Protestant church in Malaysia. We didn’t go in, but inside are hand-made pews dating back to 200 years ago.

Also in the square is the Tang Beng Swee Clock Tower, built in 1886

Malacca

…and this fountain.
Malacca

Trishaws, pedicabs decorated with bright plastic flowers and blasting pop music from speakers, are a common sight, each more gaudy and louder than the last.

Malacca

Malacca

The sign above points to the Eye on Malaysia, a 60-meter tall portable Ferris wheel that used to be in Kuala Lumpur but was transferred to Malacca just last November 2008. This is just one of the tourist attractions that we didn’t get to visit because we didn’t have the time, among them Bukit Cina, Hang Li Poh Well, and other churches, temples, forts and museums. Half a day in Malacca just isn’t enough. Still, I’m glad that despite our limited time in this historic city, we were able to experience the very vibrant Jonker Walk that evening.

Jonker Walk post coming up next.

Fenix Inn, Malacca

Abet and I are King and Queen of Cheap Accommodation. The cheaper the hotel room, the better. We’re out most of the time anyway, the room is is just a place to rest, shower, and leave our things, so as long as it’s safe, clean, and in a good location, we’re fine. I do have one additional requirement though: an ensuite bathroom. I like to take my sweet time inside the bathroom, and I have this habit of arranging all my toiletries in the bathroom as soon as we arrive and keeping them there until it’s time to pack up, so no shared bathrooms for me, thank you.

This is why we ended up in Fenix Inn in Malacca. It was the least expensive room we found online which had its own bathroom: RM98 (P1,372) on weekdays and RM118 (P1,652) on weekends for a double room (we were there on a Friday night and paid the weekend rate). It was pricey for our backpackers’ budget, but we really didn’t have much choice.

The room was small but fully carpeted, and this was actually my favorite among the five rooms we stayed at during our trip for one good reason: the sheets. They were of high quality/high thread count and were soft as butter against my skin. There was also an extra pillow, a big plus.

Room comes with wired internet. Abet was able to connect when we arrived in the afternoon, but after we got back late in the evening, the internet connection was down. Abet was told by front desk that it would be down for a week.

Bathroom was nothing to complain about. I wish I could say the same for my photography skills.

Overall, I would recommend Fenix Inn to anyone travelling to Malacca, who, like me, insists on an ensuite bathroom. It’s around 10-15 minutes away from Jonker Walk where all the action is, but it’s near enough to the most popular attractions such as Christ Church, A Famosa, Stadthuys and St. Paul’s Church. The rates are more expensive than the average backpackers’ accommodation, but the bed was definitely worth the price. If you love good sheets like I do, you’ll appreciate Fenix Inn.

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Fenix Inn
156, Jalan Merdeka, Taman Melaka Raya,
75000 Melaka, Malaysia
http://www.fenixinn.com
reservation@fenixinn.com
606-281 5511