Accidental Tourists

“Never forget… every driver is trying to kill you.”

That was a tip in one of the tourist brochures we picked up in Siem Reap last year, in an article about Cambodian road safety. According to the article, Cambodia has 10 times the traffic deaths per capita than developed countries.

Abet and I were extra careful, of course — we always are when we’re away from home.We realised though that you can only be too careful, and that there are just some situations that are out of your hand.

Like the bus accident we met en route to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam:

Our bus hit the van in front of us, and that van threw the wagon in front of it off the road. I saw one woman fly, and I honestly thought at first that there would be casualties. There weren’t, but the people from the wagon — all of them elderly — had to be carried off in an ambulance.

It was our bus’s fault, and it was such a hassle for everyone involved. I’m willing to bet none of the drivers were members of any roadside assistance club. It took three hours before the bus sent in by the tour company arrived to take us to Vietnam. We were on the road for 15 hours instead of 12.

I was able to take pictures of the Cambodian countryside and some of the locals.

And this is why I’m so paranoid on getting travel insurance whenever we go abroad.

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Back from Bangkok!

Our five days in Bangkok was the biggest food trip Abet and I ever had. In the five whole days we were there, I had 5 pad thais, 2 tom yums, 2 orders of mango sticky rice, 2 orders of bagoong rice, and countless papayas, watermelons, Thai iced tea, and street food we barely recognized. Abet ate curry and more curry. I’m not going to say how much alcohol we consumed, because my mom reads my blog. (Hi, Ma!)

As you probably know, we went to Thailand for Abet to join the annual Asia International Guitar Competition. Unfortunately, he didn’t get into the finals, but I’m still so proud of him for joining and doing his best in his first international competition. I’m even prouder of his attitude with this whole competition, his disappointment dissipated quicker than I would have thought, and now he’s raring to practice and play and compete again. That’s my Abet!

This trip was our least expensive trip abroad, proud to say! With the wedding (and marriage!) next year, Abet and I are now more careful with our spending, and that includes our travel expenses. We’re King and Queen of Cheap Accommodation, so naturally, we stayed at an inexpensive but very good value-for-money hostel. We passed on some touristy spots/activities such as the Siam Ocean World, the Grand Palace (sayang ang 350 baht), and the Siam Niramit show (not only was it pricey, but we didn’t have the time for this). We even passed on the, erm, sights at Patpong, the red-light district, because we weren’t too keen on spending thousands of pesos to dodge ping-pong balls ejected from bare lady parts. Maybe next time when we aren’t on a tight budget. This is the first country we’ve been to where we didn’t buy any books, but that was because everyhing was in Thai (and Central World where the mega-book store Kinokuniya is was burned down last month). We even mellowed down with the pasalubong this time. On our previous trips, we maximized our luggage allowance with stuff to take back home, but for now–sorry, family and friends, we’re some kinda poor.

The only thing we splurged on was our food. I love Thai cuisine so much, and I’ve converted Abet into a Thai food lover as well. This trip was just heaven for us. I have low tolerance for spicy food, but by my third day I noticed that I no longer got a runny nose while digging into my pad thai, and my glass of Thai iced tea lasted until the end of my meal. I have to say though: THAI FOOD IS LITERALLY A PAIN IN THE ASS. Go figure.

We enjoyed getting around, their train and ferry system are very efficient, and the taxis we took were okay. Abet and I walked around a lot; we needed the exercise from all the food we ate. Walking around Bangkok is peachy with the relatively clean air, interesting sidewalk stalls selling all kinds of items from Thai souvenir items to soap carved into flowers to aromatherapy supplies to sex toys, and of course, yummy street food. Alas, a lot of that walking was under the sweltering Siamese sun, that even if I never go out without slathering a generous amount of SPF50 on my face, I still ended up with a bit of a tan. I think I may need some prototype 37c from all that sun damage on my face from the trip to the temples.

We got back this morning, and as usual when we travel, I’m already experiencing withdrawal symptoms from Abet. I’m so used to having him around the last week that I’m already starting to miss him now. And as usual, I ended up falling for my boyfriend all over again. :D He spoils me rotten when it’s just the two of us, I feel like a princess. I’m cheesy again. I can’t help it. Sorry naman.

I’m now back at work, but I’m still on vacation mode. Pfffft. Anyway, I’m relieved that I got back to just 62 unread emails waiting for me, I was expecting worse. Right now there’s a pile of tamarind candy on my desk with a sign that says “Kuha kayo!”

I’ll review the hostel in a future post, I highly recommend it, and I’ll be posting more about our trip, but guess what they’ll be mostly about? Yep, food!

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My first authentic Thai massage

I’ve been pulled, stretched, beaten, trampled on, poked, pounded, twisted,  lifted, and contorted for a full hour by a tiny Thai woman that all the stress and aches in my body had no choice but to just go away.

The massage bordered on brutal and torturous, but man, I feel like a million bucks right now.

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The Killing Fields/Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

The Killing Fields
The Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, located 17 kilometers south of Phnom Penh, is the most popular of the sites known as The Killing Fields, where the Khmer Rouge executed about 17,000 people between 1975-1979. 8,895 bodies were discovered in the mass graves in Cheoung Ek.

The center point of the site is a Buddhist memorial stupa with acrylic glass sides.

The Killing Fields

The stupa is filled with more than 5,000 human skulls.

The Killing Fields

The victims’ clothes were stored in the lowest level of the stupa.

The Killing Fields
A sign inside says that the victims’ clothes were cleaned after excavating the mass graves in 1988.

The wooden buildings that used to stand on the killing grounds are no longer there. Instead, there are signboards to indicate significant spots inside the grounds.

The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields

Scattered within the grounds are mass graves.

The Killing Fieldsmass grave of 450 victims

The Killing Fieldsmass grave of 100 women and children, majority were naked

The Killing Fields
mass grave of 166 victims found without heads

There were two disturbing trees. This killing tree:

The Killing Fields

And this “magic” tree:

The Killing FieldsA loudspeaker was hung here to drown out the moans of the victims as they were being executed.

Some of the victims’ bones (and teeth) were also on display.
The Killing Fields

There are still human bones all over the site, but we didn’t find any. We really didn’t bother to look for some. Being in the fields was depressing enough, even if it was green and peaceful and quiet on those grounds.

The Killing FiedsThese aren’t your ordinary fields.

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Krup-krup

En route from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, our van stopped over at Kampong Thom, a province two hours from Siem Reap. A stall on the sidewalk had crickets…

crickets in Cambodia

and beetles (or what I hoped were beetles and not roaches):

crickets in Cambodia

I don’t really care about edible insects, I was more interested in the persimmons and pomegranates in the next stall.

persimmons and pomegranates

Abet, however, wanted to get the crickets. He sampled some and liked them, so we bought a small plastic bag for 7,000 riel–around P80–for pulutan in our hotel room later that evening. They weren’t too bad, actually. Perfect with beer.

crickets in Cambodia
Please excuse the girly fingernails–he’s a guitarist.

crickets in Cambodia
Yum!

On the way back from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (towards Vietnam), we passed by Kampong Thom again. This time, we bought a tarantula for 500 riel (P6). Neither of us ate it. We’ll stick to the crickets next time.

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Back from Backpacking

Abet and I are back from an 11-day SouthEast Asian adventure across five cities in three countries: Kuala Lumpur and Malacca in Malaysia, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia, and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in Vietnam. We had the time of our lives.

We ate hawker food, went up the Petronas Towers Skybridge, ate at Nando’s Peri-Peri Chicken, Carl’s Jr. (which we sorely missed), and Baskin-Robbins, found the books we were looking for (Stiff by Mary Roach for me, a book I bought years ago and lost, but want in my library; Hemingway’s For Whom the Bells Toll for him), lugged our backpacks all over KL’s train stations, visited the Batu Caves, experienced vibrant Jonker Street in Malacca, got lost, visited the Killing Fields, Genocide Museum, and the Russian Market in Phnom Penh, ate crickets, ran out of clean clothes and underwear, toured the temples of Siem Reap, got sunburned, got insect bites, enjoyed a Khmer buffet, watched an Apsara performance, saw the sun rise over the Angkor Wat, saw how fine handicrafts were made, ate ice cream at Swensen’s, figured in a bus accident that left several people injured (who had to be carried off in an ambulance), spent 15 hours on a bus, met other backpackers, met fellow Filipinos, became millionaires (P2,700 = VND 1M), ate a ridiculous amount of fruit, ate a ridiculous amount of French bread, drank beer almost nightly, squeezed our ways through one of the Cu Chi Tunnels, visited the War Remnants Museum, survived a sea of motorcycles, enjoyed bowls of pho, haggled at the Ben Thanh market, bought even more books, ate even more ice cream, got items for our future home, bought coffee, nuts and dried fruit for pasalubong, suffered from upset tummies from too much streetfood, and slept at the airport because our flight got majorly delayed due to typhoon Santi (we were still lucky, PAL and Vietnam Air flights were cancelled). We took a bunch of great photos, and thousands of crappy photos. It was a great adventure, and I can’t say enough how happy, thankful, and lucky I am that I got to experience this with Abet, just the two of us. Travel is one of our ultimate favorite bonding activities.

My recent trip validated two things:

1) There really is no place like the Philippines. After seeing the different sights in Malaysia, Cambodia, and Vietnam, I realized that the sights, the food, and the people of the Philippines are the best. We have three trips abroad planned for next year, but I’ll make sure to squeeze in some local destinations.

2) Abet and I make a great team. Ü I’ve known this from the very start, but travelling puts our team and our relationship to the test, and I’m glad that for this one, we passed with flying colors. Being alone in a foreign country makes us cling to each other a little tighter than usual and makes us more patient and understanding. We were each other’s world for eleven days, taking care of and being responsible for the other. We feel closer than ever, and I learned so much about myself, about him, and about us as a couple. Actually, I’m currently experiencing withdrawal symptoms from my boyfriend–we were attached to the hip the entire duration of our vacation, I think we were apart only during trips to the restroom.

I have lots of stories and pictures that I’ll blog about in the next few weeks or days. Hopefully, I’ll be able to help out someone planning a similar trip, just like how travel blogs have been helpful to us during our planning. More travel posts coming up!

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The long way home

Papa finally got home today after being stranded since Thursday, thank God! It was just supposed to be balikan trip, all he brought with him was leche flan and chocolate muffins for my brother. No thanks to the landslides that blocked Marcos Highway and Kennon Road, he got stuck in Baguio with no change of clothes and no cellphone charger. Still, my dad is a very hard-headed chum and wanted to come home already, especially since Mama just came back from a week in Surigao yesterday. This is the same guy who went up to Baguio in the midst of typhoon Pepeng, after all (while my paranoid office took us home early as a safety precaution–and dropped us off in front of our doorsteps).

And so, my dad is home, safe and warm, but not after three bus rides, one jeepney ride, one van ride, one tricycle ride (12 of them crammed in one tricycle!), and three long, muddy hikes…

the Victory Liner bus from Baguio took them only up to here

damaged road

hiking along the highway

lapuk

boulders along Kennon Road from the landslides

more walking along mud

finally, dry land

this bridge in Pangasinan was impassable…

because it collapsed

Seems like my dad had quite an adventure–and a 12-hour adventure, at that! He’s exhausted and is getting a massage as I type. I’m glad that he’s as tenacious as he is (he seemed to forget that he’s a heart patient, my God!), because if he weren’t, he’d still be in Baguio right now, and we’d still be deathly worried.

Anyway, it looks like he enjoyed the way home. Who says baby-boomer dads can’t camwhore?

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